I wanted transportation because I had an event to attend that evening and 2) I wanted the problem with the drain plug resolved. Note! My first car, a 1947 Pontiac for which I paid $75 back in 1961 leaked oil around the drain plug. So I had to replace the oil pan. My question is do I need to drill a new hole at the oilpain or do I just redrill the existing oil pan hole that was stripped then use this kit Time-Sert 1215c oil pan thread repair kit ? Find another mechanic. Firstly, there is absolutely no legitimate reason whay a hole should get stripped out. Self tapping oil pan bolts are a very inexpensive option and one I have used for years after I bought a used car and discovered the pan bolt was stripped. At any rate, the mechanic would not take a dime for his labor of removing the transmission. Another voice of agreement with the others. “Remember also that the dealer techs changing oil are one step up from washing the new cars”. During winter fun driving, hit drain bolt on a rock and distorted the thread for the drain bolt. Or retap the hole and try the same plug. During some periodic maintenance in the shop, the TR6 sump was finished up. I lack dexterity with my hands, but if I can remove a drain plug and replace it without damaging threads, anybody else should be able to do this. The drain plugged is stripped, however, and we didn't proceed with the change as we didn't know if the bolt would securely fit back in. The main reason why an oil drain plug gets stuck is due to sludge. If the threads are completely stripped it can even lead to the drain plug not fitting at all which would leave your engine completely empty of oil and unable to be ran. I’ve been able to remove all I saw from the drain hole and it looks like shiny metal now, albeit stripped threads. Maybe they shouldn’t use the impact wrench in the future. “Its not your fault,I’m really tired of people you trust screwing up your property and not standing responsible for what they mess up”. I drained the oil, put blue loctite on the threads of the fumoto valve, screwed it up into the oil pan, and then let it set up over night. Feb 12, 2017 #1 2002 GMC Yukon XL, 6.0L. This may free the bolt from the oil pan or could break the bolt head off, leaving the rest of the bolt stuck in the oil pan. Links to products that would definitely work? Stripped oil pan bolt? This type of socket is appropriate for square applications. I put one on an old accord I had when the monkeys at the local shop stripped the threads on my oil pan (and then tried to tell me that "those threads just wear out over time"). I have a 2003 Jetta that I purchased several months ago. If they are not willing to foot the bill, escalate it up to the manufacturer. Do none of those people know what an oversized plug is for? @Triedaq, you may be the same technical level , but you are much more mature than any 17 year old. Hello to all you fine people, Ended up replacing the lower pan ($64 like 8 years ago) and going with a fumoto drain valve. Everyone: Hello. Then tap the hole using the tap provided in the kit for the 5/16-24 UNF threaded insert. +1 for @dagosa. Ah but you have had a good experience overall.To put it simply I have not,I believe that being a latecomer to the auto repair scene,I’ve had more exposure to the fly by nights.The shops I frequent now are staffed by good people,takes awhile but you can find them(beforehand I either did the work myself or had a family member do it)-Kevin. I had a similar problem with a Ford dealer. They gave us a loaner car for a week and proceeded to take the head off do a magnaflux crack detection. Tiny Bolt, Major Disaster Your engine needs oil to run. Fortunately, there is a fix for this, Heli coil inserts as seen on the tip of the black tool second from left in the picture. Car: 2003 Jetta TDI, 205K miles. Not sure how, I wasn't even putting much torque on the bolt when it went. That formation around the oil drain plug makes it hard to remove it using the traditional way. The shavings were silver in color, although I'd imagine that both threads are the same color. I only had to pay for the gas I used in the loaner car. They found nothing wrong, gave me an extended warranty for future work and apologized for the inconvenience, informing me that, well, you have new gaskets, coolent and a free oil change. I have had good results with independent shops taking responsibility for goof-ups. Who is responsible, me or the mechanic. If you use a long 21/64ths bit you don’t even have to remove the pan to make the fix. Apply JB Weld to the threads of the oil pan drain plug, both sides of the attached gasket, and the drain plug opening in the oil pan. Anyone hav 6.0L oil cooler bolt stripped in oil pan. Your dealership is full of crap. I changed the oil on my earlier cars without a problem. Discussion Starter • #1 • Jan 25, 2012. Tried to get my oil changed the other day on 05 M3. This kit was a lifesaver. The molecules mix with the dirt in the engine coming from comb… I owned a 1978 Oldsmobile for 33 years and did almost all the oil changes myself and never stripped the threads. Two of the bolts in front are threaded into an aluminum cap that fits under the crank shaft. Powered by Discourse, best viewed with JavaScript enabled. !..If the oil change is done correctly then the oil pan and bold threads should last as long as the rest of the engine. What's the best way to get it off? I'm thinking it was seriously over tightened but the last person. Repairing Stripped Threads for Oil Pan Bolts, Removal and rework of a flywheel/ring gear assembly, Rebuilding the Triumph TR Transmission and Overdrive. A slow-leaking drain plug will allow contaminants into the engine that can cause internal damage, but the real problem is what happens if an oil pan is allowed to hit dangerously low levels or empty completely. Thread starter 56napco; Start date Feb 12, 2017; 5. Stripped Oil Pan Bolt! For them to give you no option but to replace the pan, is worth going elsewhere. 8-point sockets are handy because as you will see, the thread tap and insert tool are square on the end. The sludge forms around the drain plug because the oil in the engine has exceeded its oil change time. I agree. I find it hard to believe that a bolt which was loosened and tightened 32 times (4 oil changes per year) is damaged by anything but abuse. As soon as the threads start to bind, the thought is " a little dirt" instead of trying over and wire brushing the threads…it’s reach for the impact wrench ! Changing your vehicle's oil on your own is a cheaper alternative to paying a shop to do it. 2005 is old enough for that to happen?? I had had trouble along the road and another shop had made the same diagnosis of a leaking core plug. The bolts appear to go through the bolt holes in both the "cage", and oil pan, and then thread into the block of the motor. You can bet that someone who does not take the time to do this, would never think of doing it to their car. It seems like I’m being swindled here, and the whole reason I take my car to them is to ensure work is done correctly. They gave me a Tempo which was tough to live with for a week. The copper color around the bolt heads is a copper-based thread dressing. 8 years should NOT be old by any stretch. It’s sold at every parts house in town specifically for this kind of problem. I may yet achieve a leak free TR6. Pretty cool. 33 Posts . I had the vehicle in for some work and decided to have the oil changed. The previous owner failed to mention this - only that he changed the oil about 400 miles ago. You could retap the hole and use a bigger drain plug. Helicoil or tap? Parts to replace the oil pan include, new oil pan, drain pan bolt, and new gasket. The latest is a stripped oil drain plug that appears to have been held in place by JB weld (or some other hard plastic-like substance). In over 45 years of changing my own (and others) oil, I have never stripped a plug, and I’ve had some vehicles for hundreds of thousands of miles…one for 338,000 miles. You simply drill the stripped-out hole to size to be tapped. are stripped. stripped out oil pan threads, stripped threads in drain pan, stripped out theads oil pan, helicoils, drain pan stripped out, crankcase stripped theads, oil drain pan stripped, oil drain pan stripped ... which on an older Honda is problematic since flanges are rusting and bolts are probably rusted together. Remember also that the dealer techs changing oil are one step up from washing the new cars. Never used a torque wrench either on them. Age has nothing to do with it. Lower oil pan is very thin and only a couple threads thick for the bolt to grab. I have changed the oil pan gasket on my 98 wrangler 4.0 and now am the proud owner of a stripped hole in the block for the front left pan hole. Its not your fault,I’m really tired of people you trust screwing up your property and not standing responsible for what they mess up.Most of the time they don’t even offer an apology for the busted hub covers,greasy fingerprints on the sun visor etc-Kevin. Some years later, a mechanic misdiagnosed a coolant leak as a core plug behind the transmission. If this is the case, here is my suggestion: -Do NOT drive the bike -Remove the oil pan completely There are kits to rethread the holes with helicoils, there are self-tapping plugs, both made specifically for repair of this problem, which is totally unnecessary but also unfortunately common. I had the proof that the dealer was the last place that the oil was changed. My pan has the baffle in it. All bolts are now torqued properly so any seepage from the front is now doubtful. I stripped the bolt to my oil pan using a crescent wrench. Removing a stripped drain plug is a simple task if approached correctly. 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